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Tanning Chemistry: The Science of Leather By Anthony D Covington

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Review
World of Leather
Tanning Chemistry. The Science of Leather
Anthony Covington
RSC Publishing, Cambridge, UK, 2009, 483 pp. (HB) ISBN 978-0-85404-170-1
Reviewed by Christine Powley-Williams
After waiting expectantly for a number of years, finally we have a comprehensive book detailing what is considered by many to be the 'black art' of leather manufacture. It was well worth the wait.
Tanning chemistry is well structured, clearly and concisely written, and will undoubtedly become a major reference book for any student embarking on a leather technology course. It will also prove to be an invaluable resource for every practical tanner or leather researcher.
Of particular merit is the manner in which the text has been written to incorporate both practical, commonly used industrial methods and also describes the more formal approach to carrying out the same task. An example of this is the explanation of how shrinkage temperature (Ts) is used as a measure of hydrothermal stability. In-house testing would rely on a simple boil test that can be carried out in a few minutes and is routinely used by technologists whereas the instrumental technique used in test laboratories would be differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Both techniques are covered in detail.
In addition the author explains his new, and radical, theory on the mechanism of tanning: the concept of link-lock. This debunks established tanning theory that has been accepted since the early 1950s with the claim that all reactions that stabilise collagen conform to the link-lock model.
I only wish this book had been available when commencing my personal career in leather in 1982.
Chemistry World, 2009, 6(12), p. 66
From the Back Cover
Tanning Chemistry is the only current text on tanning science, and addresses the scientific principles which underpin the processes involved in making leather. It is concerned with the chemical modification of collagen, prior to tanning and the tanning reactions in particular. The subject is covered in the following order: collagen chemistry, collagen structure, skin structure, processing to prepare for tanning, the tanning processes and processing after tanning. The aim of the book is to provide leather scientists and technologists with an understanding of how the reactions work, the nature of their outcomes and how the processes can be controlled and changed. The objective is to synthesise a scientific view of leather making and to arrive at an understanding of the nature of tanning - how the wide range of chemistries employed in the art can change the properties of collagen, making leather with different properties, especially conferring different degrees of stabilisation as measured by the hydrothermal stability. Environmental issues are not treated as a separate theme - the impact of leather making on the environment is a thread running through the text, with the assumption that better understanding of the science of leather making will lead to improved processing. The book also reflects on the ways leather technology may develop in the future based on the foundation of understanding the scientific principles which can be exploited. It also includes a subject index, references and a glossary. The book provides the reader with insights into the role science plays in leather technology and provides fundamental understanding, which should be the basis for scientific and technological research and development for the benefit of the global leather industry. The book is aimed at students, leather scientists and technologists, in both academia and industry, in leather production and in chemical supply houses.
About the Author
Anthony D Covington is Emeritus Professor of Leather Science at the University of Northampton, UK. The book is the culmination of a 40 year career in chemistry and the leather industry which started with a graduateship of the Royal Institute of Chemistry (now the Royal Society of Chemistry) at Teesside Polytechnic (now the University of Teesside). He continued his chemistry experience with doctoral studies in physical organic chemistry at Stirling University, followed by post doctoral research in physical chemistry at the University of Newcastle upon Tyne. Professor Covington then joined the British Leather Manufacturers' Association (later to become BLC The Leather Technology Centre of Northampton, UK), where he spent 18 years engaged in research and development, industrial consultancy and problem solving in the UK and overseas. From 1995-7, he was President of the International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemists Societies (IULTCS) and since 1995 he has been with the British School of Leather Technology of the University of Northampton. Professor Covington has 21 doctoral completions and 230 technical publications to his name.
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